Remove the waste with a fine-tooth handsaw.įinally, add a groove in the side top rails to accept the metal clips that will hold the tabletop in place. Mark your tenons 3/8" in from the shoulder and 3/8" down from the top. The top rails have a haunched tenon to accommodate the slot in the legs. You can cut the top shoulders of the lower rails and kickplate as well, but leave the top edges of the top rails for now. Once you've cut the sides of the tenons on all the rails and the kickplate, raise the blade to a height of 3/8" and cut the bottom shoulders on all tenons. Once again, use scrap pieces to test, checking tenon fit in the mortises you cut earlier. For this project, you need to cut 1/4"-wide x 1"-long tenons on your rail ends, leaving a 1/4" shoulder on each side. Prepare to cut the matching tenons by reading “Tenon Technique” on page 45. Note that the kickplate stands alone in its mortise and doesn't sit in a panel groove. (See “Making Mortises” on next page for details on this technique.) Regardless of the mortising method you choose, it's important to test your machine set-ups with scrap before moving on to your chosen lumber. Refer to the plans for height and depth figures. Most are located within the grooves you have already cut in the legs. To allow for seasonal expansion and contraction, make your panels a little undersized. (See next page for the how-to.) Find the best final size for the panels later, by dry-fitting them after you've completed the frame assembly. It gives you the opportunity to bookmatch your panels. If you don't have boards wide enough, you'll have to glue up the panels, but this is actually an advantage. Trim and plane them to final size, using the same machine settings for each.Īll panels in this project are 1/4" thick. Just be sure to use strips of scrap wood under your clamp jaws to spread pressure over the 1/8" strips. I laminated mine from three pieces of oak per leg, followed by a 1/8"-thick layer of quarter-cut oak veneer glued on top to hide the lamination lines. Make each of your legs a little longer and wider than necessary at first. Prepare more wood, this time for the legs. Plane the drawer faces and tabletop to 7/8" thick. Orient them so the oak's ray flecks show on the 7/8" face. When the 3/4"-thick material is complete, reset your planer and bring the frame facings to 7/8" width. Rough-cut your pieces to approximate size so you can joint and plane them all with the same machine settings.
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